from Baedeker's Guide, 1890
Lake District Tourism in 1890
Extract from Baedeker's Guide to the Lake District circa 1890
English Lake District - a guide to the Lakes for visitors and tourists
Continued from here
THE DUDDON VALLEY. The easiest way to visit this valley, immortalised by Wordsworth in his 'Sonnets to the Duddon', is to take the train to (8½ miles.) Broughton-in-Furness, and drive or walk thence along the river. It may also be reached by the road over the WaIna Scar (2035 ft.), to the south of the Old Man, with the ascent of which it may be combined. The Duddon rises near the Wrynose Pass (see below), 14 miles. above Broughton, where its sandy estuary begins, and forms the boundary between Cumberland (west) and Lancashire (east). There is a small inn at Ulpha, 5½ miles. above Broughton, where the route to Dalegarth Force, Eskdale, and Wast Water diverges to the left. About 2½ miles. farther on is Seathwaite Church, of which 'Wonderful Walker' was rector for 67 years (1735-1802), governing his parish with 'an entirely healthy and absolutely autocratic rule', leading the way in all manual labour as well as instructing his people in spiritual matters, bringing up and educating eight children, and leaving £2000, - all on an annual stipend of less than £50! He is buried in the churchyard. About ½ miles. beyond the church the road over the WaIna Scar Pass (see above) diverges to the right (to Coniston 5 miles.). From this point, too, we may ascend along the Seathwaite Beck to Seathwaite Tarn, and thence to the top of the Old Man (see above). It is, however, better to follow the Duddon to a point nearly opposite the head of Seathwaite Tarn, and then make for the tarn ¼ miles.) straight across country. From the head of the Duddon valley the Wrynose Pass (1270 ft.) leads past the 'Three Shire Stones', where Lancashire, Cumberland, and Westmorland meet, into Little Langdale.
FROM CONISTON TO DUNGEON GILL viā TILBERTHWAITE AND FELL FOOT, 8 miles. (rough road, barely passable for carriages). The road diverges to the left (north) from the Bowness road near the Crown Hotel, and ascends through Yewdale, skirting the foot of Yewdale Crag (1050 ft.). At the (1½ miles.) fork we ascend to the left through Tilberthwaite Glen and skirt the beck. To the right are the richly-tinted rocks of Holme Fell and Raven Crag. About 1 miles. farther on we cross the beck. [To the left here opens Tilberthwaite Gill, a most romantic little gorge, which the path ascends by bridges, steps, and ladders. At the upper end is a pretty waterfall.] Beyond (¼ miles.) High Tilberthwaite Farm our track leads through the gate to the left (the right gate leading to Smithy Houses). It first ascends past some slate-quarries, and then descends, keeping to the left, to the farm of (1½ miles.) Fell Foot, which is surrounded by yew-trees. Ill Bell, Fairfield, Helvellyn, and the Langdale Pikes come into sight as we proceed. To the east of Fell Foot lies the Little Langdale Tarn (340 ft.) and to the west rises the Pike o' Blisco (2804 ft.). The road to the Wrynose Pass is seen ascending to the left. Just on this side of Fell Foot we cross the Brathay and turn to the right. After a few hundred yards we turn to the left, and follow the slope of Lingmoor Fell. We are now on the classic ground of Wordsworth's 'Excursion'. To the left is Blea Tarn (612 ft.), with the Solitary's cottage, while to the right the Langdale Pikes suddenly come into sight. About ½ miles. beyond the tarn we reach the top of the pass (700 ft.) and begin the steep descent into Great Langdale (View). We pass the Wall End Farm, and soon see the Old Dungeon Gill Hotel, at the base of the Langdale Pikes. The New Dungeon Gill Hotel is at Millbeck, 1 miles. lower down, near the fall. The route hence to Grasmere is described later.
FROM WINDERMERE (and BOWNESS) TO AMBLESIDE, GRASMERE, AND KESWICK, 21 miles., coach several times daily in summer in 4 hrs. (fare 6s. 6d.; to Ambleside 1s. 6d., to Grasmere 3s.). This fine drive takes the traveller through the heart of the Lake District. It is, however, needless to say that all who can spare the time should stop at various points en route. The distances are calculated from Windermere station, whence the coach starts; from Bowness add 1½ miles.
From the station the road leads to the northwest, passing the grounds of Elleray on the right, and beyond the (¾ miles.) cross-roads (to Bowness on the left and Patterdale on the right) descends through trees to (½ miles.) Troutbeck Bridge (Sun Inn). To the left are Calgarth Hall and Park. At (3 miles.) Low Wood Hotel we reach the shore of the lake, which the road skirts to (1 miles.) Waterhead passing below Dove Nest to the right. We now ascend the valley of the Rothay (to the loft a road leading to Rothay Bridge) to (¾ miles.) Ambleside.
Quitting Ambleside, we pass, on the left, the ivy-clad Knoll, the former residence of Harriet Martineau, and, across the Rothay, at the foot of Loughrigg Fell, Fox Howe, the home of Dr. Arnold. To the right opens the small valley of the Scandale Beck, and on the same side is the richly-wooded park of Rydal Hall. 1¼ miles. Rydal, a small village near the east end of Rydal Water (180 ft.), a pretty little lake, ¾ miles. long and ¼ miles. wide. To reach Rydal Mount, the home of Wordsworth from 1817 till his death in 1850, we ascend the steep road to the right for 170 yds. A glimpse of the house, on a small hill behind the church, almost hidden by the trees, is got from the coach. It contains no relics of the poet and is not shown. The pretty little Falls of the Rydal are within the grounds of Rydal Hall, the seat of the Le Flemings, and a guide must be obtained at a cottage below the church, to the left. The two falls are about ½ miles. apart, and the upper one is about ¾ miles. from the high-road.
Walkers to Grasmere may leave the high-road at Rydal, take the first turning to the left beyond Rydal Mount, and follow a path along the west slope of Nab Scar (views) which joins a narrow road at White Moss and reaches the high-road just beyond the Prince of Wales Hotel. The coach-road now skirts the north bank of Rydal Water, passing Nab Cottage, where Hartley Coleridge (d. 1849) lived for many years. Silver Howe and Serjeant Man rise in front. Beyond Rydal Water the road turns sharply round a wooded knoll, and discloses a lovely View of Grasmere lake and vale. The fells in front (left to right) are Helm Crag, Steel Fell, Seat Sandal, and Great Rigg. The coach skirts the lake for ½ miles., and at the Prince of Wales Hotel turns to the left. (Walkers who do not call at the village may save ¼ miles. by keeping to the right here, rejoining the coach-road at the Swan Hotel.) - 9 miles. (from Windermere) Grasmere.
Dr. Arnold called the highest of the three roads between Rydal and Grasmere, 'Old Corruption'; the middle one, 'Bit-by-bit Reform'; and the lowest and most level, 'Radical Reform'.
About 1/2 miles. beyond the village of Grasmere we pass the Swan Hotel, a little to the right, and soon begin the long ascent to the (3 miles.) top of the Dunmail Raise Pass (780 ft.), between Steel Felt (1811 ft.) on the left and Seat Sandal (2415 ft.) on the right. The scenery becomes wilder. To the left we have a good view of Helm Crag. The wall at the top of the pass is the boundary between Cumberland and Westmorland, and the small cairn is said to mark the grave of Dunmail, last king of Cumbria. We now obtain a view of Thirlmere, with Helvellyn to the right and Skiddaw in the distance. About 1¼ miles. below the pass, and 1 miles. from the south end of Thirlmere, we reach Wythburn (Inn).
Thirlmere (533 ft.) is nearly 3 miles. long, and nowhere more than ⅓ miles. wide. Near the middle it contracts to a breadth of a few yards and is spanned by a small wooden bridge. Its greatest depth is 108 ft. In spite of strong opposition, a bill has passed through Parliament, allowing Manchester to supply itself with water from Thirlmere, and the requisite works have marred the beauty of the lovely mere. The west side, opposite Helvellyn, is bordered with picturesque woods and crags.
The west side is the preferable route for pedestrians, who may leave the road by a lane to the left, at the Wythburn Inn, and follow the cart-track, which rejoins the main road, ½ miles. below the foot of the lake. The road skirts the east bank of the lake, at the base of Helvellyn, for about 1 miles. It then ascends to the right and soon commands a fine view of the Vale of St. John, with Saddleback (or Blencathra) in the background. The wooded knoll to the left is Great How (1090 ft). We pass (1 miles.) the little King's Head Inn, at Thirlspot; ¾ miles. farther on, the road down the Vale of St. John diverges to the left. The Castle Rock of St. John, celebrated by Scott in 'The Bridal of Triermain', now rises on the right (1000 ft.). For the next 3 miles. the scenery is less interesting, but when we reach the top of the ridge called Castle Rigg, we are repaid by a charming View of the vale of Keswick, with the lakes of Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite. Skiddaw and Blencathra rise in front; to the west are the fells round Newlands and Buttermere. We have still a descent of about 1 miles. to reach Keswick. Foot-passengers may leave this route at Armboth, halfway down the west bank of Thirlmere, close to the little bridge, and proceed to the west by a bridle-path across the Armboth Fell (1586 ft.) to (1¼ hr.) Watendlath, 5 miles. from Keswick.
Ambleside (Salutation; Queen's; White Lion; Waterhead Hotel, on the lake, ¾ miles. from the town; Lodgings), a small town with about 2000 inhab., is beautifully situated in the valley of the Rothay, at the foot of Wansfell Pike, and ¾ miles. from the head of Windermere. It is supposed to have been a Roman station, and fragments of tesselated pavements and other remains have been found in the neighbourhood. It is perhaps the best headquarters for excursions in the south part of the Lake District, and has abundant omnibus and coach communication with Waterhead, Grasmere, Windermere railway-station, Coniston, Keswick, and Patterdale. The Church of St. Mary, built by Sir G. G. Scott, contains a stained-glass window to the memory of Wordsworth.
EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE East From the Salutation Hotel a road and path ascend by the stream to (½ miles.) Stock Gill Force, a romantic little fall about 70 ft. high, with picturesque surroundings (admission 3d.). - To the (2 miles.) Rydal Falls - A pleasant walk in the prettily-wooded valley of the Rothay may be taken by crossing the river near the church and ascending on the right bank, past Fox Howe, to (1 ¾ miles.) Pelter Bridge. Then back by the high-road (1 miles.). - Another excellent view of Windermere is obtained from Jenkin's Crag, 1½ miles. to the south - Other abort walks may be taken to Skelwith Force, Colwith Force, Loughrigg Terrace (see below), Troutbeck, etc.
ASCENT South The ascent of Wansfell Pike (1597ft.), rising to the east of Ambleside, takes ¾-1 hr. The best route is via Stock Gill Force, beyond which we bend to the right and follow the general direction of a wall running up the hill. The top affords a charming view of Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal, with numerous mountains in the distance. The descent may be made on the southeast to Troutbeck in 1½ hr., whence we return via (2 miles.) Low Wood to (2 miles.) Ambleside. - Loughrigg Fell (1100 ft.) may be ascended by several routes, and its long uneven top affords a variety of views. The easiest route (about 1 hr.) is by the path ascending from Clappersgate, 1 miles. to the southwest ; the shortest ascends from the bridge near St. Mary's Church (see above). - The Fox Gill ascent begins behind Fox Howe (see above). The descent (steep) may be made by Loughrigg Terrace and Red Bank to Grasmere. - The top of Nab Scar, the southernmost spur of Fairfield, may be reached from Ambleside viā Rydal in 1-1½ hr. We follow the road past Rydal Mount as far as it goes, and ascend a green slope between two walls. - Fairfield (2863 ft.) itself may be reached by following the ridge to the north from Nab Scar (2-3 hrs. from Ambleside; fine views), but the usual ascent is by the bridle-path ascending from the Swan Inn near Grasmere.
FROM AMBLESIDE TO CONISTON BY BARN GATES AND BACK BY OXENFELL (to Coniston 7½ miles., back 8 miles.). This round is made daily in summer by chars-a-banc (fare 5s.). Circular tour tickets are also issued at Ambleside for Coniston, Furness Abbey (train), Lake Side (train), Waterhead (steamer) and back to Ambleside by omnibus (fares 8s. 9d., 6s. 6d., 5s. 6d.; tickets available for a week). - The road leads to the southwest, crosses (1½ miles.) Rothay Bridge, and skirts the south slopes of Loughrigg Fell. At (½ miles.) the village of Clappersgate we diverge to the left from the road to the Langdales and cross Brathay Bridge. We then traverse a well-wooded district at the head of Pull Wyke Bay (to the left, Brathay Hall), diverge to the right from the Hawkshead road, and ascend to (2 miles.) Barn Gates Inn, where we obtain a good mountain view. At (2 miles.) High Cross we join the route from Bowness, described earlier. 2½ miles. Coniston. - On the return-route we strike to the north through Yewdale, turn to the right after 1½ miles., and ascend past High Yewdale Farm. The patriarchal yew for which the dale is celebrated is in a field to the left, near a group of cottages, ¼ miles. beyond the farmiles. About this point the road turns to the left and ascends on the slope of Oxenfell to (2½ miles.) the top of the pass (500ft.; view). Farther on (¾ miles.) a road diverges on the left to Colwith Force (see below). To the left is Elterwater Tarn, near which is a small cottage-factory (St. Martin's), where Mr. Albert Fleming has resuscitated the old Lakeside industries of spinning and hand-loom weaving. Our road descends to the right to (1 miles.) Skelwith Bridge, over the Brathay, which forms the small fall of Skelwith Force 300 yds. farther up. We then skirt the base of Loughrigg Fell to (2 miles.) Brothay Bridge.
TOUR OF THE LANGDALES, 19½ miles., coach daily in summer in 6 hrs. (fare 4s.). From Ambleside to (3 miles.) Skelwith Bridge, see above. About 1 miles. farther on we diverge to the right from the road to Coniston and descend to Colwith Bridge, just beyond which the road forks. [We may here stop to visit Colwith Force, a cascade in the pretty little valley to the right (key kept at a cottage by the fork; 3d.).] Our road ascends to the left, a little above the fall, through the vale of Little Langdale, which is separated from Great Langdale by Lingmoor Fell (to the right). Beyond the (1 miles.) hamlet of Smithy Houses we pass Little Langdale Tarn (340 ft.) and a little farther on, near Fell Foot, join the route described earlier. The coach stops at the Old Dungeon Gill Hotel for luncheon, and ample time is allowed for a visit to Dungeon Gill Force, romantically situated in a narrow gorge, hemmed in by vertical walls of rock and making a perpendicular descent of about 70 ft. Above the fall is a curious natural bridge formed by two rocks firmly wedged between the sides of the ravine. The fall is about the same distance (½ miles.) from each hotel; those who have come from the Old Hotel may descend the hill to the New Hotel and there rejoin the coach.
[Dungeon Gill is the best starting-point for an ascent of the Langdale Pikes (Harrison Stickle 2400ft.; Pike o'Stickle 2323ft.), which takes 1½-2hrs. (pony and guide 10s.). We ascend in windings near the Dungeon Gill beck (with the stream to the right). As we approach the final part of the ascent the Pike o' Stickle rises to the left and the Harrison Stickle to the right, but to reach the latter we have to make a detour to the left round a spur. The view from the top is somewhat circumscribed, but commands Langdale and Windermere. The descent may be made by Stickle Tarn (1540 ft.), below Harrison Stickle. The route, which is unmistakable, passes between the Pavey Ark Rocks on the north bank of the tarn, and then descends along the beck. Grasmere may be reached in 2-2 ½ hrs. by keeping to the north from Stickle Tarn and climbing the ridge in front, until a point is reached from which we look down upon Grasmere. In descending we keep to the right of Codale Tarn and Easedale Tarn. From the Pike o' Stickle we may descend on the northwest to the Stake Pass and Borrowdale. - Bowfell (2960 ft.; View) may be ascended from Old Dungeon Gill Hotel in 2-2¼ hrs., via Stool End Farm and the shoulder called the Band.]
From Dungeon Gill our road runs to the east through the green valley of Great Langdale, affording a fine retrospect of the Langdale Pikes. About 2 miles. beyond Millbeck we reach Langdale Church and the village of Chapel Stile, on the fells near which are numerous slate-quarries. Here the road forks, and walkers who wish to return direct to (5 miles.) Ambleside follow the branch to the right, passing Elterwater and Loughrigg Tarn. [A hill may be avoided by following the field-path leading from the Britannia Inn in the village of Elterwater along the north bank of the Elter Water and rejoining the road at Skelwith Bridge.] The coach ascends the road to the left and soon reaches the top of the saddle between Silver How and Loughrigg Fell, where we have a good retrospect of the Langdale Pikes, Bowfell, and other summits. As we descend, a fine View of Grasmere is disclosed. To enjoy this to the full we diverge to the right a little farther on, pass through a gate marked 'private, and follow the drive to the so-called Red Bank, a bare spot on the north side of Loughrigg Fell. We return by another 'private' drive (to the right), which brings us out on the road, 1¼ miles. from the village of Grasmere. The road leads round the southwest side of the lake. Grasmere, see below.
Other excursions may be made from Ambleside to (8½ miles.) Patterdale (coach daily, joining the route from Windermere at the Kirkstone Pass, reached from Ambleside by a steep ascent of 3 miles. through the valley of the Stock Gill Beck); to Wasdale Head, either by the Wrynose Pass, Eskdate, Boot, and Burnmoor Tarn (23¼ miles.), or by Dungeon Gill (7½ miles.) and by bridle-path over Esk Hause (2370 ft.; 3-3½ hrs.); and to Keswick viā Great Langdale and the Stake Pass (road to Dungeon Gill 7½ miles.; bridle-path over the pass 3-3½ hrs.; road from Rosthwaite to Keswick 6½ miles.).
The village of Grasmere (Prince of Wales, on the lake, ½ miles. from the village, R. & A. 4s., D. 4s. 6d.; Rothay, Red Lion, in the village; Swan, ½ miles. to the north; Lodgings) is charmingly situated near the north end of the lake of the same name, a little to the west of the main road from Ambleside to Keswick. Wordsworth (d. 1850) resided here for eight years, and is buried in the churchyard. Almost every point in the neighbourhood is celebrated in his poetry.
'Keep fresh the grass upon his grave, 'O Rotha, with thy living wave; 'Sing him thy best, for few or none 'Hear thy voice right, now he is gone' (Matt. Arnold). Grasmere (208 ft.) is about 1 miles. long and nearly ½ miles. broad in the middle; its greatest depth is 180 ft. There is a solitary green island in the centre. Ferry near the Prince of Wales Hotel.
Helm Crag (1300 ft.; 1 hr.), rising to the north of Grasmere, is a good point of view. We follow the Easedale road (see below) to a point about ⅓ miles. beyond the slab-bridge, diverge to the right between two houses, pass through a gate to the right, and ascend by a wall. When the wall begins to descend we keep to the left. At the top are some curious crags supposed to resemble, when seen from below, a lion and lamb, an Ancient Woman cowering beside her rifted cell', the 'astrologer, sage Sidrophel', etc. - The charming View from (1½ miles.) Red Bank has been mentioned above. We may return by the north side of Grasmere (2½ miles.), crossing the Rothay between Grasmere and Rydal lakes, or we way extend our walk to include a circuit of Rydal Water (6 miles. in all). From Red Bank we may also ascend to the top of Loughrigg Fell in about 1½ hr. - Perhaps the best short walk from Grasmere is that to (2½ miles.) Easedale Tarn. There is a bridle-path all the way, and driving is practicable for 1¼ miles. The route leads to the northwest, following the general course of the Easedale Beck. The turns to the right are to be avoided. About ⅓ miles. from the village the road crosses the stream by a bridge, and a little farther on, walkers cross it again by a slab-bridge and ascend by its right bank. As we approach the tarn we pass Sour Milk Force, the milky water of which is conspicuous. Fine retrospect of Grasmere. The tarn lies in a secluded valley, 915 ft. above the sea and 700 ft. above Grasmere. The walk may be prolonged to Dungeon Gill (1½-2 hrs.) or to the Langdale Pikes (2-3 hrs). The return to Grasmere may be varied by ascending Silver How (1345 ft.), which rises to the south.
ASCENT of HELVELLYN (2¾-3½ hrs.; pony and guide 15s., both unnecessary for practised climbers). We follow the high-road to Keswick for 1¼ miles., to a bridge ¾ miles. beyond the Swan Hotel. Here we pass through a gate on the right and ascend the rough track to the left of the stream. To the right is the charming little fall of Tongue Gill Force, to which a digression should be made. Our track keeps to the left and can scarcely be missed, though some climbers have made the mistake of taking Seat Sandal (2415 ft.; to the left) for Helvellyn. Fine retrospects of Grasmere as we ascend. In about 1¾ hr. we reach the top of the Grisedale Pass (1930 ft.), between Seat Sandal and Fairfield (2863 ft.), where we pass through a gap in the wall. To the left lies Grisedale Tarn (1768 ft.). We now descend to the (12 min.) tarn, cross the stream issuing from it and ascend by the steep zigzag track to the left to Dollywaggon Pike (2810 ft.), the south and lowest extremity of the Helvellyn ridge. The ascent hence to the, summit, reached in about 1-1¼ hr. from Grisedale Tarn, is comparatively easy. The View from Helvellyn (3118 ft.; perhaps from 'EI Velin', the hill of Veli or Baal), the second in height but most impressive in form of the Lake Mts., is very extensive, including all the main summits of the Lake District and the lakes of Windermere, Coniston, Esthwaite, and Ullswater. (Thirlmere is not visible from the highest point.) Immediately at our feet, on the east, is the Red Tarn (2356 ft.), between two spurs of Helvellyn, Catchedicam on the left and Striding Edge (2500 ft.) on the right. The Solway Firth and the hills of Dumfriesshire bound the view to the north, while the sea is the limit to the south We may descend either to Grasmere, Wythburn, Thirlspot, or Patterdale. The Wythburn path diverges to the right from the Grasmere route about 10 min. below the top. - Grasmere is also the starting-point for the easiest ascent of Fairfield (2863 ft.., 1½-2 hrs.). We turn to the right near the Swan Hotel and ascend by a well-marked bridle-path. Or we may diverge from the Helvellyn route near the top of Grisedale Pass (see above) and make straight for the summit.
FROM GRASMERE TO PATTERDALE (ULLSWATER) BY THE GRISEDALE PASS
(8 miles., in 3-4 hrs.; an easy and delightful excursion). From Grasmere to the (1½-2 hrs.) head of the Grizedale Pass (1930 ft.), see above. The descent beyond the tarn is steep at first. To the left towers Helvellyn, to the right St Sunday's Crag (2756 ft.). Ullswater is generally hidden. Good walkers may ascend to the saddle between Fairfield and St. Sunday's Crag, and follow the ridge all the way to Patterdale (fine views). Beyond a shed, reached ½ hr. after leaving the tarn, we cross a small beck and keep to the left of the main stream. In ¼ hr. we pass through a gate and cross to the other side. From (10 min.) the form of Elm How a good road leads to (1½ miles.) Patterdale.
FROM GRASMERE TO BORROWDALE VIA EASEDALE (to Rosthwaite 3-4 hrs.). We leave Grasmere by the Easedale Tarn route, follow the road for about ⅓ miles. past the slab-bridge, pass between the two houses (as on the ascent of Helm Crag), and then follow the bridle-path to the left, which ascends Far Easdale Gill. About 1 miles. from the point where we left the road we cross the beck at the Stythwaite Steps. The track ceases about 1 miles. farther on, but we follow the course of the stream, and soon reach the (1 miles.) head of the Easedale Valley. Beyond this we cross a depression (to the right the Wythburn Valley) and ascend again in the same general direction to (1 miles.) Greenup Edge (2000 ft.), the highest part of the route, between High Raise (2500 ft.) on the left and Ullscarf (2370 ft.) on the right (View). In descending we keep to the right, the direction being roughly indicated by heaps of stones. Lower down, the path reappears and descends on the right bank of the stream (view of Borrowdale). At the hamlet of Stonethwaite, about 2 miles. below the top, we cross the stream by a stone bridge, and ½ miles. farther on join the main Borrowdale road, ½ miles. above Rosthwaite. From Rosthwaite to (8½ miles.) Keswick. - Walkers may also reach Keswick from Grasmere via Dunmail Raise (or Armboth Fell) and Watendlath.
FROM WINDERMERE TO PATTERDALE (ULLSWATER), 12½ miles., coach daily in 1¾ -2 hrs. (fare 5s., return 7s. 6d.). Circular tour tickets, available for a week, are issued from Windermere to Keswick via Patterdale (coach, steamer, and train; fares 16s. 3d., 14s. 3d., 13s. 6d.). Our road diverges to the right from that to Ambleside, at a point ¾ miles. from Windermere station, and ascends on the left side of the Troutbeck valley. Another road leaves the Ambleside road at Troutbeck bridge, ¾ miles. farther, and ascends on the right bank of the beck; it is this road that passes through the long and picturesque village of Troutbeck and past the 'Mortal Man Inn'. The two roads unite at the north end of the village. Our road soon quits the woods and commands charming views of Windermere. From (2¼ miles.) Troutbeck Church a road leads to the left to the village of Troutbeck (see above), and ¾ miles. farther on our road unites with that leading through Troutbeck (see above). We now ascend steeply along the east slope of Wansfell to the top of the Kirkstone Pass (1500 ft.), between Red Screes (2540 ft.) on the left and Caudale Moor (2500 ft.) on the right. About 200 yds. below the col we pass the Traveller's Rest, a small inn, which is sometimes wrongly described as the highest inhabited house in England. About as far on the other side of the col, to the left, is the stone that gives name to the pass; it is supposed to look like a 'kirk' from a point about halfway down. Brothers' Water comes into sight in front, with Place Fell, rising above Ullswater, in the distance. 2½ miles. Brothers' Water Inn. ½ mile. Brothers' Water (520 ft.), ⅓ miles. square, said to derive its name from the drowning of two brothers. Below Brothers' Water the road crosses the outlet of Hayes Water, turns to the left, and crosses (½ mile) the Goldrill Beck. We now descend through Patterdale, passing the mouth of Deepdale, between Fairfield and St. Sunday's Crag, on the left, and soon reach the hamlet of (1¾ miles) Patterdale. Ullswater Hotel is about 1 mile farther on.